ITINERARY: Tremosine – Limone Sul Garda
Part 1: the village of Tremosine
Travelers do you know Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast, in southern Italy, where they grow beautiful and tasty lemons?
Perhaps not everyone knows that, in Northern Italy, there is a place that, for the beauty of landscapes and mild climate, recalls the views of the Sorrento coast: it’s on the shores of Garda Lake in the province of Brescia, Lombardy.
In this article I would tell you about of the excursion made in the village of Pieve that is a fraction of Tremosine near the Natural Park Alto Garda Bresciano. This small village is perched on a rock overlooking the lake. Getting there it was a real adventure: by car, we have traveled the road “Gardesana” passing through the towns of Riva del Garda and Limone.
From there, following the signs, we have turned on a narrow and steep road that climbed the hills. The road to the village is not well sign posted and so we got lost in the woods. After a moment of panic we have followed instinct (and gps) and we came up to the village of Pieve which is one of the 18 fractions that make up the community of Tremosine.
The name Tremosine appeared for the first time in documents in 1185 as “de Tremosino” and then in 1380 “de Tremosigno”: the name is considered as resulting from a person’s name, Tremusina, perhaps of Etruscan origin, a hypothesis confirmed by the fact that in the area have been found gravestones and archaeological finds from the Roman period.
Turning into the village you will have the sensation that time has stopped: the Old Town streets are narrow, carved into the rock, while the houses have impressive walls and large wooden doors that resemble a small medieval fortress.
In the main square there is a bar with a panoramic terrace where you can sip a cappuccino and taste a croissant while watching the lake. I recommend also to visit the church of St. John the Baptist and to discover its history and its treasures: in Pieve, in the eighth and ninth centuries, there was a Christian chapel that was demolished towards the end of ‘ year in 1000 to make way for a larger church in the Romanesque style dedicated to St. Mary.
Around 1570 the Romanesque church was demolished (except the bell tower and some walls of the rectory) and was built a new building very similar to the current one. The works of art, kept in the church, are of 1600-1700 as well as altars and balustrades, but the real masterpieces are the wooden sculptures by Giacomo Lucchini, performed between 1700 and 1729. Walking around the small village we have also found a house, where, in 1913, lived and drew the famous painter Gustav Klimt. For its breathtaking views and its history Pieve was inserted in the circuit of the most beautiful “old town” in Italy.
To return to the town of Limone sul Garda, which will be the protagonist of my next article, we have traveled the “road of Forra”: nestled in the bowels of the mountain along the rift carved by the river Brasa. The steep path it was used in antiquity to transport the wood, oil and wheat and became a paved road in 1913 for the will of the pastor of Vesio who wanted connect the countries of the hills with the port on the lake.